GRAB! CLIMBER'S MIND Vol.4

Gramicci is now a fashion fixture in everyday life, but its roots are clearly in climbing. The brand originated from the climbing pants of legendary rock climber Mike Graham, who was dubbed the "Stone Master" in the 1970s. In this series of articles, we will explore the mentality and lifestyle of climbers who have been captivated by the sport, and how they approach climbing. The signpost that traces the origin of Gramicci once again embodies the essence of surviving in the present.

This June, professional rock climber Naoki Shimatani embarked on a 37-day climbing tour in Rocklands, one of the world's premier climbing areas located in South Africa. With a quiet yet strong gaze, Shimatani expresses his desire to "make a living through climbing for the rest of my life." What does he envision for his future?

―――What inspired you to start climbing?

I think it was around the fourth grade. My parents were into mountaineering, and one weekend, I went with them to an outdoor shop called Yoshiki Sports in Tsudanuma. They had a small practice wall outside, and when I tried climbing it, I had so much fun! After that, I started going every week, and while climbing, I learned about climbing teams and joined the Chiba Junior Team. It was quite serious, and I honed my skills there. I believe I was part of the first generation of the Chiba Junior Team. Our training base was a 15-meter wall at Makuhari Comprehensive High School, and I continued with the team throughout my three years of junior high. By the way, no one else from my junior high school was climbing besides me! (laughs)

―――So you were already immersed in climbing from elementary school!　Have you been climbing ever since?

Yes. I was recommended to attend Makuhari Comprehensive High School, which has a Wondervogel Club focused on both mountaineering and climbing. In the club, I continued to climb for about four hours every day. I wasn't interested in anything else; climbing was the most fun for me. However, I struggled with working in a team and didn't like crowding, so when the walls were too busy, I would escape to the gym to practice (laughs). Thanks to that effort, I was able to win the national climbing competition during my first and second years.

―――You've been facing climbing with such stoicism. Of course, you continued climbing in university as well, right?

That's right. I enrolled in a university focused on languages, but at that time, I had to cover my own expenses for participating in the World Cup. So, I worked part-time at a gym while primarily continuing my climbing there. However, due to the impact of COVID-19, some gyms closed down, and it coincided with my decision to stop competing and fully immerse myself in outdoor climbing. That's when I formed "ROKDO," and here we are today.

―――Nowadays, rocky areas are the mainstream!

I definitely prefer climbing outdoors now! (laughs) Since I was in elementary school, I was influenced by the outdoor climbing movie "DOSAGE." Climbing outside allows you to make first ascents and leave a mark for future generations. Additionally, unlike indoor climbing, outdoor conditions can vary, which tests your adaptability on the spot, and I think that's one of the real joys of it.

―――What does climbing mean to you, Mr .Shimadani?

Freedom. There are no rules, and how you climb is entirely up to you. At around 32 or 33 years old is typically when you reach your peak, so I want to make the most of what I can do right now.

―――Thank you for your hard work on the rock tour in South Africa! Can you tell us about "Rocklands," where you and your team went?

It's located about three hours south of Cape Town, the capital of South Africa, and is a climbing area that attracts famous climbers from all over the world. When we were there, the living legend Paul Robinson, who appeared in "DOSAGE," was present too! However, I was so nervous that I completely forgot to take a photo with him (laughs).

―――I see! (laughs) By the way, did you have any specific routes or problems you were aiming to climb?

Rocklands itself has many highball problems that I'm challenging, and among them, I tried the famous route called "Finish Line," which is about 10 meters tall. On the first day, I spent my time figuring out the moves and thought, "This is a climbable route." However, on the second day, when I actually started climbing without a rope, fear began to creep in. Sure enough, right before the hardest move, I slipped with my left foot and fell. As I slammed my hand against the rock, I was reminded of the sheer power of nature in front of me. That experience left me a bit traumatized, and it took me about seven days to attempt it again (laughs).

―――I'm glad it wasn't a serious injury.

I realized that when facing nature, things don't always go as planned. That's why confronting nature has a unique charm that you can't experience anywhere else. Ultimately, being able to face my limits and the routes I admire made for an incredibly fulfilling experience. "Rocklands" is my number one in life so far.

―――Please tell me about your encounter with Gramicci.

It feels more like mountaineering than climbing. Maybe it's also due to generational influences, but it has a strong image as casual streetwear as well. Personally, I really love the slightly baggy and casual silhouette of "Gramicci pants." Of course, their toughness is also appealing. While I do find it a bit difficult to extend my knees when climbing, I honestly choose based on appearance, so it’s not a problem for me at all.

―――Did you also wear them while you were in "Rocklands"?

I wore them the whole time. It was quite a tough journey, so they definitely showed some wear and tear (laughs). But I think that adds character, which is one of the great things about Gramicci. I plan to keep wearing them a lot, both for climbing and in everyday life.

―――Can you tell us about the climbing team "ROKDO" that you belong to?

I’m active with Takashi Murai and Shinichiro Nomura, whom I’ve competed with since elementary school. We challenge difficult rock formations while pushing each other to improve. We share our experiences on YouTube and Instagram, and we also organize bouldering events and coaching sessions at climbing sites.

―――What is the meaning behind the name "ROKDO"?

The name "ROKDO" is based on the Buddhist concept of the "Six Realms," with "six" representing meanings like "six grades," "V16," and "ROCK." Additionally, the wheel used to represent the "Six Realms" reminds us of the boulder "Off The Wagon" in Switzerland, which holds special significance for us. That's why we chose this name.

―――You did the rock tour to “Rocklands” with “ROKDO,” didn't you?

We went with eight members, including those from "ROKDO." There were so many other places we wanted to visit, but Ryuichi had been to "Rocklands" about seven years ago and recommended it, saying, "The scale of the rocks is just incredible." Since I had also seen it many times in DVDs, we decided to go! It was a 37-day trip, but it felt like it was over in an instant. Since it was our first long tour with "ROKDO," it was quite an emotional experience.

―――Shimatani-san, you said that you “don't like to be in a group,” but don't you get into any fights in “ROKDO” activities (laughs)?

(laughs). I like to be alone by nature, but the two members of “ROKDO” and I get along well with each other, or maybe it is because they are close to me. In climbing, we like different types of challenges, so we don't climb at the same crags (laughs). In fact, we didn't fight at all when we went to "Rocklands.

―――Finally, please tell us about what you want to convey through climbing.

I want more people to know about the beauty of climbing spots. With the Olympics, competition climbers often get the spotlight, but the roots of climbing are in the boulders, and I started climbing because of my admiration for them. However, there are few media outlets that convey the charm of climbing, so I hope "ROKDO" can take on that role and work hard to share it.

―――I'm looking forward to it! What about your personal goals?

I'd like to go to Rocklands next year. I'll definitely make it past the finish line next time!