GRAB! CLIMBER'S MIND Vol.5

Gramicci is now a fashion fixture in everyday life, but its roots are clearly in climbing. The brand originated from the climbing pants of legendary rock climber Mike Graham, who was dubbed the "Stone Master" in the 1970s. In this series of articles, we will explore the mentality and lifestyle of climbers who have been captivated by the sport, and how they approach climbing. The signpost that traces the origin of Gramicci once again embodies the essence of surviving in the present.

Mao Nakamura is a sports climber who radiates a positive aura that instantly brightens the atmosphere just by being there. She trains regularly at B-PUMP OGIKUBO while working as a company employee, continuing to challenge herself in international competitions. I had the opportunity to ask her about her unique style and the secrets behind her smile.

―――What inspired you to start climbing?

I've always wanted a dog since I was little, and my dream finally came true when I got one in the fifth grade. The breed that perfectly matched my three main criteria—"cute, small, and low-shedding"—was the Bichon Frise, so I named her "Komugi-chan." I started taking care of her just before summer vacation and canceled all my plans to look after her, but she ended up sleeping about 17 hours a day (laughs). 

So, I found myself with nothing to do, just staying at home during the summer break. That's when I talked to my parents and began going to "Shinagawa Rocky," a climbing gym nearby where I could have fun.

―――So it all started with a dog!

Exactly! However, I became so immersed in climbing that I often neglected taking care of Komugi-chan (laughs). At that time, I was also taking tennis lessons, but the schedules overlapped with my climbing classes, so I ended up quitting tennis.

Tennis involves strategy and playing against an opponent, where you have to vary your pace and tactics, right? I think I wasn't really suited for it because I had a straightforward, charging style and could only keep attacking (laughs). With climbing, I can give it my all the entire time, so it matched my approach much better.

―――When did you start competing?

It was when I was a first-year high school student. That year I was a really busy one, being selected as the Japan Youth Representative and the Tokyo Representative. Among those, competing in the National Athletic Meet with Nonaka Imoe as a pair was a huge experience. It all started when Nonaka didn't have a partner, and my name just happened to come up in a recommendation from someone in the climbing world. She's had that hair color since high school, and I was really scared when I first met her... but she was actually really kind (laughs).

Nonaka-san is two years older than me, but I think it's amazing that she has been able to continue leading the way from then until now. She has been an indispensable part of my climbing life, and she is truly like a god to me.

―――Please tell us about the sport climbing in which you participate.

There are three disciplines in sport climbing: speed, lead, and bouldering. Speed climbing is a competition where athletes race to climb a standardized course as fast as possible. Until around 2017, there was no such course in Japan, making it a relatively new discipline there, but now there are athletes who have won medals in it.

Next is lead climbing, where competitors try to climb as high as possible on a single route set on a tall wall within a time limit, requiring endurance. Finally, bouldering is a competition where athletes attempt to complete as many routes on a wall as possible within a time limit. I am best at bouldering.

―――Do you go to outdoor rock climbing too?

Now I mainly do sport climbing as an athlete, and I have competitions and the like, so I don't have much time to go to rock climbing. But of course I love rock climbing, so I'd like to find a good balance so I can go as often as possible.

―――Please tell us about "B-PUMP OGIKUBO," where you often visit for training.

It is a pioneer of climbing gyms in Japan, has a long history, and I personally think it is the best gym in Japan. Many athletes, including Nonaka-san, visit this gym, so another benefit is that you can practice together. In addition, since it is also an import agent for the holds themselves, there is a huge variety of holds, and it is also attractive that it has the kind of holds that appear in the World Cup and the latest holds.

―――Do you go to other gyms?

Of course! I train five to six days a week. I go to "B-PUMP OGIKUBO" about two to three times a week, and for the rest, I go to other gyms. For example, at "THE STONE SESSION TOKYO," I practice dynamic movements, and I visit gyms with many small holds to strengthen my fingertips. I mainly go to "B-PUMP OGIKUBO" for practice that closely resembles competition conditions. The training environment there is truly the BEST!

―――Please tell me about your encounter with Gramicci.

I started wearing Gramicci climbing pants after my mother told me, "Gramicci is a brand for climbing pants," when I was in my third year of high school. I found the logo and graphics really cute, and since then, I've been collecting them more and more. In the gym, I primarily use Gramicci shell shorts, and when I go bouldering outside, I often wear Gramicci pants because they have sturdy fabric and allow for good leg movement.

―――That's such an honor! Do you use it regularly?

Of course! I probably have around 20 pieces total in my personal collection. I’ve always liked more menswear-style clothing, and I really appreciate the loose silhouette. Gramicci is the only brand I truly love. I'm confident that I like Gramicci the most in the climbing community!

―――Nakamura-san, you are currently also working for a company, right?

Yes. I work at "Nisshin Fire & Marine Insurance Co., Ltd.," which is an official partner of the Japan Mountain Sports Climbing Association. While working there, I participate in domestic and international sport climbing competitions. To put it simply, it's like being part of a corporate team: I work in the office from morning until early afternoon, and then I go to the gym to train. That's my main lifestyle.

―――Generally, most climbers work in jobs related to climbing, like at climbing gyms, while pursuing their climbing activities. So, your style is quite unique, isn't it?

That's true. To be honest, I had a strong desire for stability in the future. So even if I couldn't work at my current company, I would have looked for a way to continue climbing while being an ordinary office worker. I'm really grateful for my current company.

―――Is there anything you would like to convey through climbing?

As I mentioned earlier, I became a company employee after going through job hunting during my university years while continuing to compete. In fact, many people tend to stop climbing after graduating from high school or university, so I hope my approach can serve as a model case and a guiding light for maintaining climbing throughout life. To achieve this, I want to continue balancing work and competition while becoming an even more successful athlete in events like the World Cup.

―――Finally, what does climbing mean to you?

It's the biggest hobby in my life! I don't think there's any point in doing something if it's not fun, so if I get too hung up on winning and it becomes too hard, I'll quit tomorrow (laughs). At the moment, though, I don't think I'll quit for the rest of my life.